If you’ve found yourself standing in the moisturizer aisle overwhelmed by all the options, you’re not alone. A quick glance at Target online shows over 900 results in the “Face Moisturizer” category, and with labels marked “heavy cream,” “lightweight,” “oil-free,” and “hypoallergenic,” it’s nearly impossible to tell which is best for your skin without knowing what to look for.
The truth is that the best moisturizer is not the same for everyone. Dry skin needs one type of product, while oily skin needs another, and so on. Knowing your skin type and ingredients to look for can help you make the best choice.
First things first: What’s my skin type?
You can tell what skin type you have by how it looks first thing in the morning.
Normal skin is well balanced. It’s neither dry nor oily, has smaller pores and an even complexion.
Dry skin doesn’t produce enough sebum to keep it moisturized, so it can appear flaky, scaly, or rough. Sometimes, especially in winter, dry skin becomes cracked and inflamed.
Oily skin produces too much sebum, so it tends to look shiny or greasy. Enlarged pores are common because they become clogged with oil.
Combination skin is dry in some spots, such as the cheeks, and oily in the forehead, nose, and chin.
Sensitive skin can appear red or inflamed in spots because it is easily irritated by fabrics, environmental allergens and fragrances. Having sensitive skin is usually a sign that the skin barrier is damaged, either due to an underlying skin condition, (such as rosacea), changing hormone levels, stress, or even sleep deprivation.
How do moisturizers work?
Moisturizers work by hydrating and restoring the natural barrier function of the skin. They contain agents that work together to improve skin hydration and prevent water loss. Different moisturizers are made with different ingredients, but contain a combination of the following based on the type of skin they aim to treat:
- Humectants, such as glycerin and hyaluronic acid, attract water to the skin and help to increase its water content.
- Occlusive agents, such as petrolatum and mineral oil, form a physical barrier over the skin that reduces water evaporation.
- Emollients, such as shea butter and ceramides, help to smooth and soften the skin by filling in gaps between skin cells. Ceramides are waxy fat molecules that make up part of the skin barrier, so they’re highly beneficial for dry, tight, flaky skin.
- Other active ingredients. Some active ingredients in moisturizers help with specific skincare concerns. Vitamin C and vitamin E strengthen the skin barrier by protecting skin from free radicals. Salicylic acid is great for acne-prone skin because it is oil-soluble and sneaks into pores to help keep them clear. And alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) like glycolic acid and lactic acid dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells to brighten and refine.
Moisturizer should be applied when skin is damp, such as after getting out of the shower or washing your face. Use a generous dose in the morning (before applying any make-up), and again at night after washing your face. Many moisturizers contain SPF 30 sunscreen. If they do not, moisturizer should come first, then sunscreen, then makeup.
Keep in mind that what’s good for the body generally isn’t always best for the face. Full-body lotions and moisturizers usually contain lanolin, mineral oil, or waxes that are great for the body’s thicker skin, but can clog pores and lead to acne when applied to the face.
What’s the best moisturizer for my skin type?
Once you know your skin type and the purpose of certain ingredients, it’s easier to choose a moisturizer based on your skin’s unique needs.
Normal skin. Hydration needs for normal skin change with the season. In the cooler months when air is dry, use a thicker cream with ceramides to help lock in moisture. In warmer weather, stick with a lighter, water-based product that won’t make your skin feel greasy.
La Roche-Posay Toleriane Double Repair Face Moisturizer is a soothing, lightweight moisturizer that strengthens the skin’s barrier while providing long-lasting hydration.
Dry skin. If you have dry skin, it’s time to ditch the lightweight or gel-based moisturizers, as they may not provide enough hydration to see a difference. Instead, look for a cream that contains hyaluronic acid or dimethicone to draw water to the skin, and rich, nourishing ingredients such as shea butter, ceramides, or glycerin to seal in moisture.
CeraVe Moisturizing Cream is the number one recommended moisturizer by the Skin Health Foundation for dry skin. Its rich, non-greasy formula is perfect for long-lasting hydration without clogging pores
Oily or acne-prone skin. People with oily skin often think they don’t need a moisturizer because their skin is already, well, moist. Instead, they wash their face excessively, which actually strips the skin of natural oils and causes dryness. In response, oil glands go into overdrive and produce even more oil to try to compensate, and that can lead to acne. Using a moisturizer keeps oil production balanced. It’s best to avoid heavy creams that can clog pores, so look for a lightweight, water-based and oil-free option with hyaluronic acid or glycerin, which are hydrating but not greasy.
Neutrogena Hydro Boost Hyaluronic Acid Water Gel with hyaluronic acid is one we frequently recommend for oily skin.
Combination skin. For combination skin, you don’t want too much oil, but also need to address dryness. Choose a lightweight, oil-free moisturizer that combines humectants and occlusive agents, such as glycerin and dimethicone, to provide balanced hydration without causing acne.
Forefront’s Excelin Ultra Light Daily Moisturizer is an oil-free formula with lanolin, glycerin and aloe vera that promotes healing while hydrating the skin’s moisture barrier.
CeraVe Facial Moisturizing Lotion SPF 30 is another oil-free formula that is cream-based, so it hydrates, but has non-occlusive ingredients that won’t clog pores.
Sensitive skin. Dyes and fragrances in cosmetics are not great for any skin condition, but they can be especially irritating for sensitive skin. Look for a hypoallergenic and fragrance-free moisturizer with less than 10 ingredients to avoid allergic reactions.
Vanicream’s Moisturizing Cream is free of dyes, fragrance, lanolin, parabens, and formaldehyde releasers. It’s light enough that it won’t clog pores, but it does a good job of minimizing dryness.
Do I need to avoid any moisturizer ingredients when pregnant?
Many moisturizing agents including hyaluronic acid, ceramides, and mineral sunscreens are safe to use during pregnancy. However, studies from the AADA show that pregnant women should avoid retinoids (retinol, Retin-A), hydroquinone, high-dose salicylic acid, and parabens in moisturizers to minimize risks of birth defects, miscarriage, and endocrine disruption. If you are not sure whether a cosmetic product is safe, be sure to ask your dermatologist.
Need help deciding what’s best for your skin?
If you are struggling to determine your skin type, are interested in finding the best skincare routine, or just want to improve your skin’s overall health, our board-certified dermatologists at Forefront Dermatology are ready to help. To find an office near you, visit the locations page today.
Book an appointment with your trusted, local dermatologist.
