Is “Glass Skin” Good or Bad?

The Trend Has Lots of Benefits, But May Require Adjustments for Certain Skin Types. Here’s How to Achieve it Safely.

While scrolling through TikTok, it’s likely you’ve seen lots of influencers lending tips on how to achieve a flawless, dewy, translucent glow—otherwise known as “glass skin.” The idea isn’t new; it grew in popularity back in 2018 when Korean estheticians began teaching their clients “what it takes to get skin like a porcelain doll.” But in recent years, thanks to social media experts sharing the regimen with the world, everyone seems to want it.

But is the regimen as effective as influencers claim it is? Is it safe for everyone? And is there a science behind the trend?

We’ll run through the popular skincare routine and explain why it’s best to proceed with caution and consult with a dermatologist first.

What does “glass skin” look like, and how do I get it?

Glass skin means it’s smooth, even-toned, and has a luminous sheen—like a piece of glass. Pores are so clear, they’re essentially invisible. There’s no inflammation or redness, and fine lines and wrinkles have been replaced by tight, plump, youthful contours.

To achieve the trending look, influencers tell viewers to follow this process regardless of their skin type or current skin condition:

1. Double Cleanse using an oil-based cleanser followed by a water-based cleanser.
2. Hydrate with a hyaluronic acid and/or glycerin serum once a day, and a hydrating sheet mask once or twice a week.
3. Moisturize twice a day to lock in serums and lock out harmful environmental toxins.
4. Use a clay mask or pore strips once a week to clear dirt and debris from pores.
5. Exfoliate 1-3 times per week to get rid of dead, dry skin. TikTok experts recommend a product that contains AHAs and BHAs (alpha hydroxy and beta hydroxy acids).
6. Use sunscreen every morning to prevent premature aging, sunspots, and fine lines and wrinkles, all of which threaten the smooth, radiant finish glass skin is known for.  

While some of these steps are great for achieving healthy, glowing skin, it’s important to keep in mind that some steps may be damaging for certain skin types or skin conditions. Let’s discuss the pros and cons of the regimen.

What the glass skin regimen gets right

One of the main focuses of this skincare routine is hydration. By keeping skin hydrated and locking in moisture, it’s possible to keep the skin healthy and looking great for several reasons:

A better skin barrier. Well-hydrated skin retains its protective function more effectively, keeping out environmental toxins like pollutants and UV rays which can lead to signs of aging. It’s also better able to heal itself when there are blemishes and inflammation. When the barrier is healthy and intact, skin redirects its energy towards repairing collagen and elastic fibers, rather than damage to the stratum corneum (outermost layer).

Balanced oil production. A common misconception is that skin becomes oily when it gets too much moisture. But dehydrated skin actually overcompensates by producing excess oil, which can lead to breakouts. Keeping skin hydrated helps balance this out, leading to a more clear complexion.

Enhanced skin elasticity. Skin that is hydrated looks more youthful since it can stretch and bounce back, which is especially important as we age and produce less collagen and elastin.

Why the glass skin routine is not right for everyone

We all have different genetics, and thus, different conditions like oily or dry skin, eczema, and certain sensitivities. As dermatologists, we recommend patients keep in mind their particular needs when following any skincare routine. That may mean straying from the typical “glass skin regimen” in exchange for:

The right cleansers for your skin type. While oil-based cleansers help to remove oil-based impurities and excess sebum, they are not always best for acne-prone skin. Sometimes it’s better to skip the double-cleanse and opt for a single water-based cleanser with active ingredients like salicylic acid, which can prevent clogged pores and loosen dry, scaly skin.

Controlled exfoliation. For some skin types, excessive exfoliation can damage skin barrier health. Stripping the skin of its essential oils two or three times per week can result in redness, irritation, flaking, peeling, and dehydration, which is the opposite of what glass skin is supposed to look like. Exfoliating just every other week might be enough to remove dead skin cells safely. For those who deal with eczema, exfoliating should be done only after consulting with a dermatologist.

A healthy level of hydration. Believe it or not, it’s possible to flood the skin. A healthy skin barrier (or stratum corneum) is balanced with natural moisturizing factors (NMF) and ceramides that act like ‘glue’ to hold skin cells together. Too much moisture softens the barrier, causing cells to effectively disintegrate and compromising the skin barrier. This can lead to clogged pores and irritation as debris is able to make its way beneath the surface. Overhydrating with multiple moisturizers and hydrating masks can also inhibit the skin’s ability to produce its own oils because it thinks there’s already enough, which can cause skin to become dry. It’s best to consult with your dermatologist if you’re not sure how much hydration your skin needs (or can handle).

Even when glass skin isn’t possible, beautiful skin is

In most of the videos we’ve seen, the models and influencers promoting glass skin are often young with naturally plump, undamaged skin. Older women with existing age spots, loose skin and wrinkles are not likely to erase time with a 6-step skincare routine.

The same goes for people with cystic or hormonal acne, rosacea, hyperpigmentation, or even those with genetically large pores. Washing with two cleansers, moisturizing and exfoliating can’t solve those issues and create a flawless complexion.

So, not everyone will be able to have invisible pores and translucent, smooth skin. But it is possible for everyone to make their skin look the best it possibly can by following a skincare routine recommended by their doctor. A board certified dermatologist can provide tips for dealing with breakouts, recommend gentle cleansers, and discuss cosmetic dermatology procedures and services that can help achieve beautiful, natural-looking results.

What are cosmetic dermatology services that can help skin look like glass?

At Forefront, many of our offices offer procedures that can complement or enhance the results of a glass skin regimen for some, and replace certain steps of the routine for others.

Chemical peels to minimize pores, brighten skin, and even out tone

Just like exfoliating, chemical peels help remove dead skin cells, smooth fine lines, and reduce hyperpigmentation (brown spots) for a glass skin look. Professional skin resurfacing at Forefront is performed by experts who take time to understand each patient’s skin condition, minimizing damage to skin barrier health.

Microneedling for smaller acne scars and smooth texture

For a skin surface as smooth as glass, we create tiny micro-injuries that boost collagen production as the skin heals. The result is smaller pores, reduced scarring, and firmer skin.

Skin-tightening lasers for reduced fine lines

For those who have trouble regaining firmness and elasticity through skincare products, laser treatments work beneath the skin’s surface to boost collagen and improve skin tightness.

Neurotoxins to smooth out lines and wrinkles

Botox, Jeuveau, and other neurotoxins are effective for reducing expression lines such as those in the forehead and between the eyes.

Dermal fillers for plump, bouncy skin

To get the voluminous, contoured look of a porcelain doll’s face, it might be worth trying  hyaluronic acid-based dermal fillers injected directly into areas that have lost definition, such as in the cheeks, jawline, and under the eyes.

Forefront Dermatology is here to help you achieve beautiful skin, safely

Aesthetic trends like glass skin are not all bad, but it’s worth talking to a skincare expert before implementing a new routine that could potentially be damaging. At Forefront, our role is to help patients achieve beautiful skin that not only looks good but stays healthy for years to come. If you’re seeking medically guided, personalized skin care, contact us today.